In August 2013 I spent 3 weeks travelling through the Pacific
North-west US states of Washington, Oregon and California. No excuses for the delay in getting round to
finally writing up a trip summary, but a chat with Mike and Henerz recently
convinced me that I should do something before I forget the details. Our trip itinerary consisted of visiting
Seattle, Olympic National Park, Mount Saint Helens, the Columbia River gorge, the
Oregon coast, Crater Lake National Park, northern California and San Francisco.
We flew from Manchester to Seattle with Icelandair as we
fancied a stop-over in Reykjavik on the way home. Once in Seattle we picked up a hire car for
the long journey south to San Francisco, where we then left the car and flew
back to Seattle with Virgin America for the return flight home. Considering we drove 2,000 miles the total
cost of fuel was staggeringly cheap at £150.
Days 1 – 3: Seattle
We spent the first few days in Seattle taking in the
sights. However, despite being confined
to a city decent birds were on offer including regular fare like Black-capped
Chickadees, White-crowned Sparrows, American Robins, Violet-green Swallows,
Pigeon Guillemots and very approachable Glaucous-winged Gulls. When I last visited Seattle in 2000 the vast
majority of gulls were Westerns so it was interesting to see that this time
they had been largely replaced by Glaucous-wingeds (and their many hybrids!)
Black-capped Chickadee
American Robin
Glaucous-winged Gull
On our final day in Seattle we took the bus to Discovery
Park, which Henerz had tipped me off about following his visit.
While labelled as a ‘park’ this is actually vast area on the outskirts
of the north-west suburbs offering a diverse range of birds in a fantastic mosaic
of habitats. The wooded trails from the
visitor centre were fairly quiet (unsurprising in August) but still produced
Pacific and Bewick’s Wrens, Black-throated Gray Warblers mixed it with
chickadees in the canopy and Spotted Towhees and Song Sparrows fed on the
ground. Walking closer towards the coast
the vegetation opened up a bit and produced Pine Siskin, Cedar Waxwings and a
Warbling Vireo. Where the park backs on
to the coastline overlooking the Olympic peninsula I had Rhinoceros Auklet,
Great Blue Heron, Northwestern Crows (very similar to American Crow but with a
more nasal call) and a close fly-by Osprey while migrating Northern
Rough-winged and Barn Swallows surfed the airwaves. As we walked back through conifer woods
bordering gardens later on even more new birds were forthcoming including a
brief Evening Grosbeak, Orange-crowned Warbler and a circling Sharp-shinned
Hawk.
Warbling Vireo
Cedar Waxwing
Day 4: Seattle – Port Townsend
Today we picked up our hire car from Seattle airport and
started the road trip proper. Rather
than heading straight south we wanted to take a detour around the Olympic
peninsula (the USA’s most north-westerly point away from Alaska and home to the
Olympic National Park) so we headed around Puget Sound and up to Port
Townsend. Pigeon Guillemots and
Rhinoceros Auklets showed well here, but the highlight was the assorted gulls
(Heermann’s, Western, Glaucous-winged and California) at close quarters along
with a small foraging flock of Least and Western Sandpipers.
Western Sandpiper
Pigeon Guillemot
Day 5: Port Townsend to Forks
We covered the northern coast of the Olympic peninsula
today, including a detour up Hurricane Ridge which was disappointingly quiet
for the hoped-for montane birds but gave spectacular views over the Olympic
mountain range. First stop was at the
excellently-named John Wayne marina in Sequim Bay. This site provided a good opportunity to
grill some close-in Mew Gulls while a small party of nearby Canada Geese
appeared to include both Occidentalis
and Fulva. Somewhat more enticing though were two
Harlequins just offshore while further out in the sheltered Sequim Bay were groups
of Rhinoceros Auklets. Another scan from
a bit further north from the end of Port Williams Road produced plenty more
Pigeon Guillemots, Common Guillemots (californica)
and Rhinoceros Auklets along with a smart Red-necked Grebe floating on glass-calm
water.
Harlequins
Mew Gulls
Moving round to Dungeness County Park, a sandy/shingle spit
of land protruding north, I finally connected with my first Marbled Murrelets –
these looked oddly out of place with their plump bodies and small heads as they
swam on the calm sea still in their cryptic mottled summer plumage that they
use to hide on the boughs of ancient trees when nesting in the old-growth
forests. Horned (Slav) Grebes and Great
Northern Divers were also on show along with hordes of Surf Scoters. Yet more Cedar Waxwings were on offer here
too and I was starting to get used to their high-pitched trills.
Continuing on Highway 101 towards Forks for the evening (a
tiny town of 3,500 made famous as the setting for the Twilight films, as my Mrs
informed me anyway!) we called in for a break at Lake Crescent. Good birds here included a Yellow-rumped
Warbler (of the western Audubon’s subspecies), Red Crossbills overhead and
plenty of Pacific Wrens (recently split from the eastern Winter Wren and much
darker).
Day 6: La Push to Centralia
The day got off to a great start with a visit to La Push, home
to the Quileute tribe, on the Pacific coast just west of Forks. The spectacular scenery was complemented with
Bald Eagles soaring overhead and two perched together in a dead tree scanning
the river, which held a small group of moulting Harlequins. Out on the ocean were yet more Surf Scoters,
Rhinoceros Auklets and Pigeon Guillemots, but the highlight was the Tufted
Puffins still resplendent in their summer plumage; what a buzz to connect with
these in the scope!
As we headed south along the coast other stops gave views of
White-winged Scoters, Pelagic Cormorants, Black Oystercatchers and Red-throated
Divers. The Hoh River Rainforest
National Park (the largest remaining temperate rainforest in the world, and home
to nesting Marbled Murrelets) was fairly quiet birdwise but Golden-crowned
Kinglets and a pair of Wood Duck were new for the trip.
La Push
Bald Eagles
Tufted Puffins (prints available!)
Day 7: Mount Saint Helens to Cascade Locks
After a night’s stay at a handy Motel 6 we headed over to
Mount Saint Helens (long revered since studying it in my school Geography class)
which erupted in May 1980. The
devastating effects can still be seen now in the lahar-scarred banks of the
Toutle River, with new growth juxtaposed against the older forest, and the scorched
trunks of long-dead trees in the blast zone itself. In the moonscape of the blast zone a Yellow
Warbler feeding young added a splash of colour and a Dusky Flycatcher tested my
empidonax ID skills, as did a Western Wood-pewee near Coldwater Lake. Raptors along the road back included Red-shouldered
and Red-tailed Hawks.
A break at Beacon Rock Wildlife Refuge on the banks of the
Columbia River, which splits Washington and Oregon, gave great views of Vaux’s
Swift, Violet-green Swallow and Tree Swallow hawking low overhead in the
evening sun allowing good comparison, while a Western Wood-pewee and a group of
Western Scrub Jays were in the nearby conifers.
Mount Saint Helens
Dusky Flycatcher
Day 8: up the Columbia River to Bickleton then back to the
coast at Lincoln City
Following the old Oregon Trail east up the mighty Columbia
River gorge we set off for Bluebird-friendly Bickleton. En route the drier habitat revealed the first
Turkey Vultures of the trip and the drive along the deserted Bickleton Highway
was excellent for birding. What appeared
to be a fly-catching woodpecker alongside the road had me hitting the anchors
and a short wait was rewarded by a resplendent Lewis’s Woodpecker at the top of
a dead pine making short sallies every now and then for flying insects. Several were seen doing this along the
highway, using the dead trees as perches.
An American Kestrel and Olive-sided Flycatcher were also nearby while a
Sage Thrasher looked very thrush-like perched on a roadside post.
In Bickleton itself (a tiny village of less than 100 in the
middle of nowhere) we drove slowly along the ‘Bluebird route’ (a circuit
passing many of the Bluebird boxes that the locals have kindly provided). We were too late for the Westerns, which had
already finished nesting and left the area, but a few family parties of
Mountain Bluebirds were still hanging about - the adults surprisingly well
camouflaged against the cobalt blue sky.
Other good birds of this dry, open habitat included Vesper and Savannah
Sparrows, Western Meadowlarks and a surprise Say’s Phoebe that hovered
alongside the car as it searched for prey.
Vesper Sparrow doing its best Corn Bunting impression
Mountain Bluebird
Western Meadowlark
Killdeer
Days 9 to 11: Oregon Coast
We hit the Pacific Coast again at Lincoln City, Oregon. With fog banks rolling in off the ocean we
opted to try and escape them by heading inland for a walk amongst the Douglas
fir forests at Drift Creek falls. The
dense forests were fairly hard work birding-wise but along the trails I
encountered a few feeding flocks. The
most numerous warbler was Wilson’s, and easily picked up as it fed at eye level
in the understorey. Higher up more
Wilson’s and Black-throated Gray Warblers flitted under the canopy and I also
had frustrating views of either a Townsend’s or Hermit Warbler (or possibly a
hybrid) that I just couldn’t quite nail down.
Back up the trail a series of loud clucking noises announced
the presence of a massive Pileated Woodpecker, which swooped down past me and
was quickly joined by a young bird, both comically hanging from a salmonberry
bush as they gleaned the fruits. Driving
back down the damp, misty track I encountered the star bird of the trip - after
much previous searching and several false alarms with American Robins I rounded
the corner and there in the damp verge was a fantastic Varied Thrush! Using the car as a hide I was able to get quite
close as it fed under the dripping boughs with its curious hopping, bouncing
gait – what a bird and the only one of the trip despite spending plenty of time
in apparently good habitat.
Pileated Woodpecker
First encounter with a Varied Thrush
Further south along Highway 101 in Depoe Bay we heard that a
few Gray Whales were hanging about offshore (they normally migrate along the US
west coast from Mexico to Alaska but a few individuals opt to hang around at
various points) so we booked ourselves on a boat trip for the following day.
The mist was still rolling in the next morning but
thankfully the captain was happy it would lift by lunchtime. As we waited in the harbour a Belted
Kingfisher flew low overhead calling and Black Turnstones and Surfbirds fed on
the seaweed-covered rocks. Heading out
into the ocean Brandt’s Cormorants, Red-necked Phalaropes and the californica race of Common Guillemot
showed well. It wasn’t long before we
were enjoying a magnificent Gray Whale, feeding surprisingly close inshore between
us and the cliffs landward – one of the trip highlights.
After another night in Depoe Bay we continued ever south
along Highway 101 soaking in the incredible views of the Pacific
coastline. Regular scans offshore
yielded Black Scoter, Pacific Loons, Western Grebes and a few more Marbled
Murrelets for good measure. The first
Brown Pelicans also started to appear, flying alongside the highway in squadron
formation. A mammal highlight came in
the form of two Steller Sealions just offshore.
Belted Kingfisher
Gray Whale
Surfbirds and Black Turnstones
Days 12 and 13: inland to Crater Lake National Park
After a few days enjoying Oregon’s Pacific coastline we
fancied a change of scenery and had heard lots of good things about Crater Lake
National Park so we drove east along the Umpqua River highway. A viewing layby on the southern side allowed
great views of Roosevelt Elk (one of the four remaining North American
subspecies) sparring with each other on the meadows while flocks of Red-winged
Blackbirds fed around their feet and Violet-green Swallows lined the overhead
wires. Another stop, this time to check
out Rochester’s covered bridge, yielded a small party of Lesser Goldfinch on
the roadside.
Roosevelt Elk
After an overnight in a cabin at Diamond Lake (a bit like
the resort from Dirty Dancing) we were up early to make the most of Crater Lake,
the deepest lake in the USA. The crater
was formed when Mount Mazama blew its top spectacularly 7,700 years ago and
it’s now possible to drive the full 33km circumference. The scenery here is quite literally breath-taking
and I would highly recommend taking the detour off the beaten track if you’re
ever passing.
While taking in the awesome panorama at the first viewpoint
my attention was diverted by some squawking from nearby Whitebark pines – the
culprit was a
Clark’s Nutcracker, one of the most numerous birds seen up
here.
After dipping them in Yosemite NP
in 2009 it was nice to catch up with them here and fitted well with the Lewis’s
Woodpeckers seen earlier in the trip (both being named after Meriweather Lewis
and William Clark, who had completed the first successful expedition across the
western USA in 1804).
Other bird
highlights in this stunning location included
Mountain Chickadees and a family
party of
Gray Jays, which I’d thought would be much easier than they were.
A stroll through a wildflower trail gave nice
views of
MacGillivray’s and
Orange-crowned Warblers before it was time to
hightail it back to the coast, skirting forest fires as we headed west to
California.
Clark's Nutcracker
Gray Jay
Crater Lake National Park
Days 14 - 15: northern Californian coast
We hit the Pacific coast again at Crescent City, northern
California, passing through the Jedediah Smith Redwood State Park en
route. We travelled south along Highway
101 enjoying Giant Redwoods towering above us to the left and the Pacific Ocean
breakers to our right. Highlights seen at
various roadside stops between Crescent City, Eureka and Garberville included
another MacGillivray’s Warbler, a family party of Wrentits, Willow Flycatcher,
Hutton’s Vireo, lone Hooded Merganser and Pied-billed Grebes and a fine flock
of roosting Elegant Terns.
South of Garberville we forked west onto Highway 1, which
hugs the Pacific coast south to Point Reyes.
A brief seawatch added Sooty Shearwaters to the trip list and we passed
a family party of Wild Turkeys feeding by the roadside. Bodega Bay proved to be fantastic for
shorebirds offering great views of Semipalmated Plovers, Western and Least
Sandpipers, Western Willets, Marbled Godwits, Short-billed Dowitchers and
Sanderling as well as a group of roosting American White Pelicans. That evening a scan from the decking outside
our room at Motel Inverness with a glass of wine handy yielded a Northern Harrier
quartering the saltmarsh of Tomales Bay and several Hudsonian Whimbrel.
MacGillivray's Warbler
Elegant Terns and Western Gulls
Feeling small amongst the Giant Redwoods
Day 16: Point Reyes
With a full day to explore Point Reyes before driving to San
Francisco (only an hour away) we were up early to make the most of it. Along the road to Abbott’s Lagoon an American
Kestrel gave good views perched on a post.
While stopped to scan a flock of blackbirds for Tricolored I picked out
a pair of Cinnamon Teal on a farm pond, alongside the more familiar Gadwall,
Shoveler and Pintail. A walk out to the
beach from Abbott’s Lagoon failed to produce the hoped-for Snowy Plovers,
probably due to a Peregrine that was sitting proud on a piece of
driftwood. However, the lagoons en route
held a Red-necked Phalarope and several gull species while Anna’s Hummingbirds buzzed
among the vegetation. From the beach itself
there seemed to be a small southward passage of Red-necked Phalaropes, with
several small flocks passing close inshore.
Later on in the afternoon I finally connected with some
Tricolored Blackbirds feeding near a ranch among their commoner Red-winged
cousins, but the highlight was a surprise encounter with a Bobcat which loped its
long legs across the track in front of us alarming the nearby California Quails. Further along the track a Western Bluebird
was perched on telephone wires - great to connect with this species at last after
missing it earlier at Bickleton.
Mammal highlights included Tule Elks at the northern
end of the reserve and a group of Northern Elephant Seals resting on the beach
near Chimney Rock, while Surf Scoters and Pacific Loons adorned the sheltered
waters of the bay.
Migrating Red-necked Phalaropes
Tule Elk
Bobcat action shot!
Western Bluebird
Days 17 – 19: San Francisco
Some last-minute birding around Motel Inverness in the
morning produced a Cassin’s Vireo amongst a small feeding party of Wilson’s
Warblers and Chestnut-backed Chickadees.
Before arriving in San Francisco there was still time for some more
birding so I checked out Bolinas Lagoon, a massive tidal lagoon less than an
hour from SF. A Clark’s Grebe was
present and Long-billed Curlews, Hudsonian Whimbrels and Marbled Godwits fed on
the exposed mud.
Even in San Francisco I managed to eke out a few more good
birds including Black Phoebe, Western Tanager and California Towhee in a small
park, alongside the more common Anna’s Hummingbirds and Dark-eyed (Oregon)
Juncos.
Orange-crowned Warbler
Dark-eyed (Oregon) Junco
California Towhee
Anna's Hummingbird
The couple of days we had in Reykjavik were fairly quiet
birdwise but it was good to see plenty of Glaucous Gulls and a few Icelands
hanging about, among a surprising number of Lesser Black-backed Gulls. There were also a few summering Whooper Swans
and Pink-footed Geese in the local area.
Two young Razorbills from a whale-watching boat got my hopes up for a
few seconds too. Wouldn't mind going back to Iceland for a bit longer and with a car!