Birding Cadiz province 25
April – 2 May 2012
Here’s
a report and some pictures of our recent birding trip to Southern most part of
Spain. Participants were, Simon Hugheston Roberts and Eddie Urbanski and me,
Rhys Jones. Sadly we were a man down from our trip last year to Cyprus but we
soldiered on .We were based in Tarifa and birded mostly in Cadiz province
though occasionally venturing into Malaga and Seville provinces. – the pics are
at the end
We
Flew from Liverpool with Easyjet and stayed at an amazing Cottage just outside
Tarifa. The cottage, Casa Alferero, is in a little wooded valley on the coastal
slope about 30 m above the sea and it overlooks the narrowest part of the
Straits of Gibraltar. As I had hoped when booking, the garden and surrounds
proved to be a migrant trap with Orphean Warbler, Golden Oriole, Turtle doves,
necked nightjar and various raptors seen as well as nightingales singing all
night. The house was only1 km from one of the recognised raptor
watching stations – “Trafico” although we were too busy to do any proper raptor
watching. The seawatching from the garden was superb with passing Pomarine skuas, shearwaters and even
puffins seen. We also saw cetaceans form the garden including many Pilot Whales
and Striped Dolphin amongst other unidentified cetaceans.
The house was just off the coastal path and a 15 minute walk
to the cool bars, restaurants and shops of Tarifa. In short the location was perfect
and, being one of the closest houses in Spain to Morocco and we could even see
people in Morocco from the garden with scopes!
More
details about it here:
We
hired a car through Economy car hire and were upgraded to a VW Touran for £145 for
a week inc all insurances. A great car which wafted us over a zillion potholes in comfort judging by the amount of sleep
one of our groups enjoyed on the back seat between sites!
This
area of Spain has an amazing diversity of habitats and landscapes within a
relatively small area and we spent much of our time travelling around, birding
as many different sites as we could. Hence the species List – 181 in total which
exceeded our expectations by quite a bit! We saw around a hundred species on most
days.
I’d
visited the area before and had done a lot of preparation beforehand – putting
many of the sites we wanted to visit into the sat - navy using books and google
maps.
We
used the following books and resources
Where to Watch Birds in Southern and Western Spain: Andalucía, Extremadura and Gibraltar Andrew Paterson and Ernest Garcia (2008) - very useful with many sites including adjoining Malaga and Seville Provinces. Also lots of background detail and the status of all birds in the area.
Finding Birds in Andalucía by David Gosney (Aug 2009) - less sites covered but the main ones included and in great detail so we found it very useful.
A Birdwatching Guide to Southern Spain by Malcolm Palmer and John Busby (Apr 1997). Getting on and bit and so some parts out of date, however it has a really useful tick list in the back.
Cadiz
Birding by John Cantelo. 2012-05-14
A brilliant site guide with an almost overwhelming number of sites and great
detail for each site. Also lots of background info and a wealth of enthusiasm!
Available directly as a PDF from John Cantelo via his very informative website
and blog http://birdingcadizprovince.weebly.com/index.htmI
I loaded it
on to the kindle which worked quite well if you read it in landscape rather
that portrait – It saved a lot of printing
Other good websites studied beforehand included:
Never
mind the Finnsticks read the blog
http://andalucianguides.blogspot.co.uk/
lots of nice
pics and recent sightings
Migres
website
http://www.fundacionmigres.org/
Good for daily
and historic tallies of raptors seen crossing the straits
Birding
the Costa
http://birding-the-costa.blogspot.pt/
Andrew Paterson’s
blog – see first reference above.
Here’s a brief itinerary of the sites we visited
25
April
Rio
Guadalhorce, Sierra Crestillina, Rio Genal, Tarifa
26
April
Playa
de los Lances – Santuario de la Luz, Facinas, La Janda inner road, Benalup,
Vejer de la Frontera, Bolonia Archaeological site, Sierra del Retin.
27
April
Palmones
Estuary, La Montero del Torero (Devils Eye), Ojen Valley, La Janda canal road,
Benalup, Trafalgar, Atlanterra.
28
April
Sanlucar
de Barrameda, Bonanza Saltpans, Algaida Pinewoods,
Laguna de Tarelo, Salinas de Monte Algaida
29
April
Laguna
de Medina, Alcala de los Grazules to Jimena de la Frontera, Pinar del Rey
30
April
Laguna de Mejorales, Brazo del Este, Laguna
Medina
1
April
Llanos
de Libar, Rio Genal, Sierra Crestillina
I
won’t describe all the sites in detail as they are amply covered in the
publications above, and details are available on the web.
However
some sites, as well as the cottage of course, really left an impression:
Brazo
del Este with its vast flat landscapes and epic skies (at least to my
Snowdonian eye) really impressed us. This is the eastern end of the Coto Danana
– on the eastern Bank of Guadalquivir. It was a long drive to get there but the
sky was full of raptors and flocks of
glossy ibis and the wetlands
heaved with waders and the reeds held reeling Savi’s and Great Reed warblers.
Salinas
de Bonanza where the wader numbers was mind boggling. Most wader species were
present in a variety of plumages.
Algaida
pinewoods. We arrived as a thunderstorm cleared and the hot sun came out. There
is a breeding colony of Black Kites here and their shadows were filtered down
to the dappled forest floor as they cruised above the canopy giving their eerie
calls – the effect was quite magical.
We
all agreed that the site which impressed the most was Llanos de Libar. It’s an
upland valley which begins at Montejaque – a small village about 8Km west of
Ronda. It’s drivable for about 9km along a rough track. At its eastern end a rocky field really er…
rocked : ) – 3 Wheatear species, Blue
and Rufous-tailed Rock thrushes, Rock Bunting, Rock Sparrows, Iberian Grey Shrike,
and Black redstarts hopped about while Chough and Bonelli’s eagle cruised the cliffs above. The landscape becomes gentler
at its western end with open oak woodland (dehesa?) and noisy packs of the
famous brown “iberico ham” pigs. Here we had woodlarks, Mistle Thrushes and
breeding Subalpine warblers.
John
Cantelo describes this site in detail in his notes.
It
was great to see so many sites and birds in such a short time, and although a
bit full-on we had a great time. We connected with many sought after birds but
also missed a few target species, particularly both smaller swifts, but we were
probably a tad early for white-rumped and in too much of a rush for Littles!
Next
time I think I’d like to take a more relaxed approach and spend more time
around the house Raptor and Sea-watching and being more patient waiting for
those swifts.
Apart
from the birding, the other highlight of the trip was the food. We stopped off
every day for coffee, beers and tapas at little roadside ventas in the
countryside. The food was delicious and very cheap and varied from octopus
salad to quail’s eggs – superb!
Here’s
our trip list with a few additional notes. The marks out of seven refer to the
number of days out of 7 on which we saw the species.
Great trip report, Rhys. Pleased that my notes proved useful, but for those not wishing to be overwhelmed I do have a shorter 15 page version. Naturally, any interested parties reading this are welcome to a copy of either/both. I am, though, piqued that you got a couple of species I've yet to catch up with in the province - seawatching is a tad difficult from my house in Alcala de los Gazules and that lack Vulture was pure jam! John Cantelo
ReplyDeleteGreat trip report Rhys- excellent stuff- and a reply by the great John Cantelo :-)
DeleteThis is one of my favourite all Time areas for a holiday. I've been fortunate to get Ruppell's Vulture, Lanner Falcon, White rumped and Little Swift in the area along with a pod of Orcas. Can't recommend the area enough.
Thanks for the comprehensive report Rhys.